“I haven’t been everywhere. But it’s on my list.”

Roman History Meets the Adriatic
Pula is a seafront town on the southwest tip of Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula. With a population of nearly 60,000, it is Croatia’s 8th-largest city. This beautiful city offers a small taste of Rome without the large population, tourists, or cheesy commercialization. It is a great, low-key alternative to Rome, with the added benefit of being on the Adriatic Sea!
This region of Croatia dates back to the prehistoric era and has a strong Venetian influence. Due to its strategic location, the city has been the site of extensive battles for control, including by the Romans, Venetians, Ostrogoths, and Allied forces during World War II.
Pula is a fascinating city that remains largely undiscovered by tourists. Its authenticity and local appeal are quite attractive, but that is changing as more people become aware of all it has to offer. There are ancient monuments, lovely national parks, an old town, and many forts. You can also take in the gorgeous coastline, extensive water activities, music, and art festivals. There is a vibrant nightlife and modern light shows.
The Roman Ruins That Called to Us
What drew us there was the Roman arena. It is the 6th-largest Roman amphitheater in the world and the only one with a fully intact circular wall. Built in the 1st century A.D., it is amazingly preserved and a pleasure to explore.
Imagine this: the Colosseum in Rome, without the crazy lines or the crowds. It is smaller but, in many ways, just as spectacular, and it is on the Adriatic Sea to boot.
This massive structure and the fascinating museum beneath it had only four people during our visit. Arriving near sunset, after a rainstorm had illuminated it in golden light, we were able to wander this magnificent Roman ruin and have it to ourselves. We felt as if we had stepped back in time. It was hard to believe we were not in the heart of Rome.
Entertainment Venue for Over 2,000 Years

It was not hard to imagine 20,000 cheering spectators two thousand years ago watching gladiator fights. Surprisingly, it is still used for concerts featuring performers such as Elton John and Pavarotti. There are sporting games, city events, and outdoor movie nights. It has been used as the backdrop for Hollywood movies such as Titus. The fact that it is still used for significant events 2000 years later speaks to the Romans’ engineering and brilliance.

Other Roman Sites in Pula, Croatia
There was a long Roman presence in this city, and there are many more monuments from that period. The Temple of Augustus, the Triumphal Arch of Sergius, the Old Town, the Forum, the Gate of Hercules, the Pula Communal Hall, and a well-preserved Roman theater are well worth visiting. There is no doubt that this was a great Roman city.
Where is Pula, Croatia?
Pula sits at the southern tip of Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula, where the Adriatic Sea curves into quiet bays and historic harbors. Its location places it closer to Italy and Slovenia than to much of inland Croatia, which helps explain the region’s distinct cultural blend.
Pula is about a 3.5-hour drive from Zagreb, Croatia’s capital. It’s much closer to neighboring countries. roughly 1.5 hours from Trieste in Italy and around 2 hours from Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital. This crossroads position makes Pula an easy addition to a broader European itinerary, whether you’re arriving by plane, car, or ferry.
There is WAY more to Pula, Croatia, Than Those Roman sites
The Pula Castle Fortress




Pula Castle, “Kaštel,” is an old Venetian fortress built between 1630 and 1633. It is high on a hill above the city of Pula, at the southern end of the Istria Peninsula in Croatia, overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Because of its dominating position, the fortress was used to defend the city, bay, and port for many centuries.
The castle was designed by French military engineer Antonio De Villa and modeled on French methods. Some of the stones used to build the castle were from a nearby large Roman theater and other quarries around Pula. It was a key defensive position for Venetian control of the Adriatic Sea.
The fortress’s central rectangular core is reinforced by four pentagonal towers, enhancing its security. From an aerial perspective, the castle appears to be shaped like a flower. The castle was refurbished several times over the centuries. During the Austrian-Hungarian dynasty, the fortress was called Hafen Kastell, and during the 19th century, it received new armament, a prison, a guardhouse, and other enhancements. It was part of Pula’s city fortification system.
Today, the Historical Museum of Istria is in the Castle. It has more than 75,000 objects of cultural, historical, political, and military significance across more than 15 collections. To reach the castle, you can drive up or take an elevator via Zerostrasse (see next).
Zerostrasse

Beneath Pula’s hills, the Austro-Hungarian authorities began construction of an extensive underground system of tunnels stretching across most of the city of Pula. The underground tunnels were erected during WW1 to provide shelter in case of air raids. After the First World War, the Italian government continued to use the underground shelters and expanded them.
The underground tunnel system included shelters, trenches, galleries, and passages, as well as ammunition storage and communication lines. The tunnels of Monte Zaro, Monte Ghiro, and the Castle are the largest. Zerostrasse has four entrances on different sides of the hill’s base, each leading to an underground corridor that converges on a central space. The entrances are designed to ensure proper air circulation. All the Pula shelters combined could accommodate up to 50,000 people, nearly equal to the city’s population.
We found the tunnels fascinating and a great way to enter the castle from below. In the middle space where the tunnels meet, you can take an elevator up to the castle. There are separate entry fees for Zerostrasse and the Castle.
Austro-Hungarian Forts
Pula has an impressive collection of remnants from its Austro-Hungarian era, when it served as the Empire’s main naval port. 26 forts are falling into ruins but remain fascinating to visit. Maps can help you discover these gems, many on hilltops with gorgeous views. It is a great way to spend a day exploring the city’s surroundings.
Religious Sites in Pula, Croatia



Croatia is a country of deep faith, which is core to the lives of its citizens. Pula reflects this in its many religious places of worship. These include the Monastery and Church of St Francis, the Church of St Anthony, the Church of the Lady of the Sea, the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Holy Virgin, and the Pula Cathedral.
The Modern Side of Pula
On the more modern side, there are the Pula Aquarium, the Marketplace, wineries, pubs and bars, lovely public parks, sporting events, outdoor concerts, film festivals, gladiator shows, cooking classes, and a lively club scene. If that isn’t enough, there are the Lighting Giants in Pula’s shipyards. Created by designer Dean Skira, the sophisticated light show involves 16,000 color variations.
The Gorgeous Adriatic and its Offerings
Sitting on the deep blue Adriatic Sea, Pula is blessed with a beautiful and dramatic coastline. The beauty of this area will take your breath away. Cape Kamenjak is striking, with a collection of small islands offshore. The natural beauty of its cliffs and rock formations will amaze you, as will the locals jumping off the cliffs into the crystal clear ocean. The best beaches are on the west side of the Cape.


To Name a Few Seaside Activities
Given its Adriatic location, water activities are a popular draw. Popular activities include kayaking, sunset boat tours, sailing, speedboating, windsurfing, paddleboarding, sea cave exploration, dolphin watching, waterskiing, jet skiing, snorkeling, and scuba diving. Many of these are available a short drive south of Pula in Medulin.
National Park
Want to explore some nature? The Brijuni National Park is a 20-minute boat ride away and typically requires reservations. The island is densely wooded, with the perimeter graced with narrow white-sand beaches. This area features hundreds of Cretaceous-era dinosaur footprints and full-size dinosaur figures. Additionally, there is part of a Roman villa to see.
Food and Libations
The region’s cuisine is well respected, and food tours are popular. The Istria peninsula is famous for its truffles, and this is a great place to partake in some black truffles. What is food without a drink? There is quite a bustling nightlife in Pula, and pub crawls are a fun way to spend an evening. Not into pubs? Well, there are wineries in the Pula area for Croatian wine tasting. Croatia has a vast wine country with unique and fun varieties. Food and alcohol are very well priced, so indulge a little.


Museums
Of course, what is a city without a collection of fantastic museums? Pula has many, and one of the best is the Archaeological Museum, which features a beautiful collection of mosaics and ancient stone relics. On display are artifacts from Stone Age caves and Byzantine marble sculptures. Several other museums, including those for contemporary art, maritime art, and photography, are for your perusal. Take some time to appreciate the rich history.
Beyond Pula
Pula is one of many incredible cities on the Croatian Istria Peninsula’s west coast and would be an excellent base for exploring the area. We stayed for two days and used it as our base to visit Rovinj, Porec, Sveti Lovrec, Novigrad, and Vrsar. We are so impressed by these towns that we will dedicate a whole post to them. They are beyond magnificent. Pula served us well as the perfect location to work from, especially since we wanted to avoid changing hotels every night.
Two of our Favorite Pula restaurants
Konoba Battelinas


On Joelle’s second visit to Croatia with her cooking group, they secured a reservation at one of the country’s top restaurants. It is just a short distance from Pula in Banjole. It is highly popular, and reservations are difficult to secure. We thought it was a pipe dream to secure a reservation for 16, even months in advance. It may have been our willingness to arrive at 5:00, a very early hour to eat in Croatia, that helped us secure one.
Battelinas is a historic tavern in Banjole, owned by the Skoko family. It is decorated while maintaining some elegance. The famous self-made chef David Skoko, a talented TV Chef loved throughout Croatia, was one of its founders. Although he no longer cooks at Batelina, he reportedly creates the menu. Batelina prides itself on serving fresh produce directly from the sea, meaning that what is fished that day will be on the menu. That spontaneity is what draws many to Batelina’s, as is the imaginative culinary skill. David Skoko’s cuisine is unique and delicious.

The daily offerings are explained to the guests verbally. We never saw a menu, though smaller tables may have been given one. A fish was served that we had never heard of. The presentation was remarkable, and the freshness was beyond compare. Some dishes were raw, and most were cooked. The wine list features local wineries. The warm service, attentive staff, and relaxed atmosphere make it one of the best dining experiences you will ever have.
Anthony Bourdain Brought Them Even More Exposure
Anthony Bourdain visited Croatia in episode 3 of season 8 of No Reservations. In this episode, he dines at Konoba Batelina with Chef David Skoko and his mother, Alva, who had appeared on Master Chef. Batelina was already on the map, but this launch brought them to a worldwide audience.

Here are some of the dishes we were served: White Bream carpaccio with tiny tapioca balls, Eddlefish confit in zucchini sauce, Conger eel butter, Octopus salad, Gnocchi with tuna, Risotto with tiny shellfish, Anchovies in olive oil, Scallops on the shell, and Red Mullet with crispy polenta and zucchini. These were just some of the dishes; our meal had 21. For a fish-oriented menu, their desserts were no less spectacular. Many in our group rated it one of the best meals they had ever had.
The restaurant accepts only cash, and though the cost is high for Croatia, it is very inexpensive compared to most of Europe and the US. We warn you that getting a reservation can be confusing. They do not have a website, which makes their popularity even more impressive. We were able to get a reservation by emailing capir@pu.t-com.hr. Their phone number is +385 52 573 767, though we never used it ourselves.
Konoba Boccaporta

During our first visit to Croatia in 2020, while in Zagreb, our hotel’s front desk asked where we were heading next. When we said Pula, they immediately said we have staff here who come from there. They called her over, and she was excited to share her knowledge of the area. We told her we prefer restaurants that cater to locals rather than tourists. She did not hesitate and said, “Konoba Boccaporta.” She said it was a local favorite with the region’s traditional food.
Always seek recommendations from the locals you meet; they are a wealth of information.
On our first night in Pula, as we made our way to the restaurant, we were sure the GPS had lost its signal as we entered a forested residential neighborhood; however, just as we were about to give up, it appeared.
And what fun it was!
Their Motto Says it all: ‘A Nice Word Opens the Door.’

That is fitting, as it had a local feel; we were likely the only non-Croatians there that evening. The restaurant had a rustic interior, wooden beams, and a roaring fire in the hearth. It reeked of authenticity, atmosphere, and charm. We were fortunate that night, as only one table remained. Our server initially seemed unsure about what we were there for. When we asked him to suggest the best representation of the local cuisine and his favorites, he became genuinely excited to plan our meal.

We got a feast! There is so much meat in the local cuisine. It was a blast, and our server was engaging and entertaining. The service was excellent, the conversation fun, and the food delicious. The price was very reasonable for all the great food we ordered. As we headed out after we paid the bill, our server stopped us and invited us to join him for a shot of Grappa. That simple and kind act made our whole evening. Moments such as these make for the best memories.
We highly recommend Konoba Boccaporta for an authentic, delicious dive into Istrian Croatian specialties.
Where to Stay in Pula, Croatia
Pula and its suburbs offer a wide range of accommodations. We stayed south of downtown on the waterfront in the Pješčana Uvala area. We loved the location—minutes from downtown but quiet and relaxed. Our hotel was nice, but we would not recommend it, as it serves a narrow clientele that may not be a good fit for many people, including us.
The hotels and Airbnbs we found while researching the area were quite reasonable, since most everything is in Croatia.
We suggest deciding first if you want to see more of the city or have a quieter experience. If you prefer a resort beach experience, look at the Medulin area. Check reviews closely and make sure they are recent. Parking can be challenging during peak season, so keep that in mind when selecting hotels. Use either link below to find accommodations in or near Pula.
Where to Find Accommodations
When planning a trip, it’s always wise to compare accommodation prices across different platforms. Expedia, based in the U.S., and Booking.com, based in Europe, don’t always feature the same properties, so checking both can give you the best range of options. We prefer Booking.com for its user-friendly interface and wide selection, but we always recommend double-checking the hotel or vacation rental’s official website. Sometimes, you’ll find exclusive deals or perks when booking directly.
Click the link below to explore hotels and vacation homes in the area you are planning to visit. Who knows? It might be just the spark you need to start planning your next grand adventure.
Closing Thoughts

Croatia is a magnificent country, and Pula is part of that wonder. The city is vibrant and has a vibe that surprised us. Amid ancient history, it has a cosmopolitan feel while remaining personable.
We wish we could have spent at least one more day in this area during our joint visit. That was one reason Joelle suggested it to her cooking group. However, there was still not enough time. There is so much to see and do. It could be a full-week vacation with endless activities.
As we continued our journey, we reminded ourselves that the adage remains true: It is best to wish you could spend more time at a destination than to be anxious to leave. You will want to spend more time, and you may not want to go. Don’t worry; there is always next time.
© 2026 Wanderers Compass All Rights Reserved
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